(See details in Part 2.4, Control of moisture flow and Part 9.4, Ventilation and combustion air.)Ĭarefully remove the plastic and note any condensation on the bottom of the plastic or wetting of the concrete or soil. If condensation formed on the top of it, this indicates high interior moisture levels. For earth floors, hold down the edges with sand or sticks. To test for this, cut a sheet of plastic about 1 m (40 in.) square and tape it to the concrete walls and slab. If the foundation walls, slabs and earth floors appear dry yet the space seems damp, this might indicate that moisture is wicking through the foundations and evaporating faster than it can accumulate. Condensation can also form on the foundation walls in the summer when the air is very humid and the foundation is cool. Minor dampness may be corrected from the interior more serious problems should be corrected from the outside. Symptoms of dampness on foundations and finishes include staining or mould growth, blistering and peeling paint, efflorescence (a whitish mineral deposit on the surface), spalling (deterioration of the surface) as well as a musty smell. Minor water leaks can sometimes be corrected by directing water away from the foundation by sloping the grade, aiming downspouts away from the house and patching the foundation on the interior.Ĭorrect any problems with sump pumps or sewer backup before beginning the insulation job. Often the solution requires excavating, damp-proofing or waterproofing the basement, adding a drainage system and insulating from the exterior. Major water leaks, such as persistent leaks and flooding in the spring and when it rains, must be corrected. Here are some of the problems to look for: They are damp-proofed and are generally fully insulated.īefore planning the job, assess the status of your basement. Many newer homes are built with preserved wood foundations. They are best insulated from the outside, but some interior insulating is possible. These foundations were rarely damp-proofed some have an interior drainage path and all have a high mortar content, which can absorb water from the soil. Older foundations are often uneven and can vary in depth and thickness.
Iii) Older rubble, brick or stone foundations As concrete contains large amounts of moisture, it is best to let it dry before insulating and finishing unless the renovation method to be used can handle this entrained moisture. If the house is new or it has been raised to accommodate a new basement, allow about a year of drying out time before insulating or renovating. Ii) New houses or new foundations under older houses This type of foundation can be insulated from the outside or inside if no serious water or structural problems exist. However, anything more than 20 years old may need some repair.
Poured or concrete block foundations have been built since the 1920s, usually with parging, waterproofing and drain tiles on the exterior. Other houses are built on a slab-on-grade where there is no basement or crawl space at all. Some older homes, cottages or mobile homes are built up on posts and piers, leaving the space below the house open or walled off. Many houses have been built with partial depth foundation walls that create a crawl space under the house.
#Radiant media client ce full
The most common type of construction is the full foundation basement, with mainly below grade foundation walls supporting the house structure.
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